Saturday, 14 May 2011

Film Review: The Way Back (Blu-Ray)

After a seven year break, Peter Weir returns to the big screen with a film that is reminiscent of some of his best work - unlike his previous film of 2003, "Master and Commander", which was unusually loud and fast paced. Weir's greatest films include, in my opinion and in this order, Fearless, Witness, The Truman Show and Dead Poet's Society and The Way Back fits right in as yet another captivating, beautifully shot character drama. Jim Sturgess, Ed Harris, Colin Farrell and raising stars Saoirse Ronan (Atonement, The Lovely Bones, Hanna) and Mark Strong (RocknRolla, Body of Lies, Sherlock Holmes, Kick-Ass) lead the cast in a story about a group of men who escape Gulag 105 during WW2 and their 4000 mile walk to India. There is some dispute whether the story is actually based on real events or not which is actually irrelevant for the enjoyment of the film. The first half of the film is dark, bitter and strangely claustrophobic, spaninng the arc from introducing the characters to escaping the Gulag and making their way to Mongolia. At this point, the film visually opens up, colours brighten and the second half is truely breathtaking, with some of the most beautiful cinematography (courtesy of Russell Boyd who also filmed "Master and Commander") I have seen in the last few years. Many directors would have pushed helicopter shots and a bombastic soundtrack à la "Lawrence of Arabia" down your throat, but Peter Weir maintains his almost underplayed style and sticks to quiet, intense scenes, carried by the exquisite cast which holds its own against the magnificent backdrop of the Mongolian wastelands, the Gobi Desert, the Chinese Wall and the Himalayas.

The Blu-Ray does the beautiful images justice and is worth every penny. Extras include a Making of, Interviews and some Deleted Scenes.

7.5/10 - Peter Weir is back to top form and this Blu-Ray should be in every good collection.

Sunday, 8 May 2011

Food Review: The Royal Oak, Paley Street, Maidenhead, UK

The Royal Oak is one of ten pubs in The UK which hold a Michelin star. The pub is located on a quiet country road near Maidenhead, providing ample parking. As you step in you get that nice feel of an old traditional English pub that has been refurbished to today's standards. The first difference you notice is that there aren't that many beer pumps at the bar (I spotted only two to be precise, one offering London Pride and the other an Ale I did not recognise). As you move through to your table (booking recommended!) you may then notice the wine fridge and the wine bottles lined up on one wall (if you know your wine you will notice a couple of Chateau Petrus and Chateau Mouton-Rothschild among them). The tables are pub style without table cloths and overall you begin to get the feeling that you are in for a fine meal in a relaxed atmosphere.

We started with a Hendricks & Tonic and ordered a Scotch Egg (£3.50) and Rabbit on Toast (£3.25). The latter was simple and yet very delicious, with a nice crunchy base, some sea salt and topped with rabbit meat that reminded me a little of French Rillette (although not as greasy). The Scotch Egg was clearly prepared with home-made sausage meet and a quails egg, yolk slightly runny - a perfect interpretation of a classic snack. While we enjoyed the "Ouverture", we were studying the menu which was a bit different from the one we had seen online. We learned later in the evening that the menu changes very frequently (the menu was indeed showing the day's date) dependent on availability of seasonal products, etc. Most starters range from £9.95 to £12.95, with one exception, English Aspargus with a soft boiled gull egg, pea shoots and Hollandaise (£19.95). I decided to give that one a try and wasn't disappointed with the fresh, crunchy green asparagus, moistened by the gull egg (which had a bright orange-red yolk and a pleasant mild taste) and cleverly spiced up by the pea shoots. My friend David ordered Wood Pigeon, Ham and Middle White Pithivier with green peppercorn sauce (£10.50), which was described to us as a "Pigeon Wellington" - a UFO shaped pastry sitting in a nicely balanced peppercorn sauce was filled with perfectly cooked pigeon breast, wrapped into an aromatic dry-cured ham: a great dish and the better of the two starters. Since we had ordered a very nice bottle of red (Chateau Crozet-Bages 1998 for £150 - we had the last bottle!) we gave the very appealing fish dishes (£21 to £32) a miss and had a meat feast: David ordered the Peppered Haunch of Denham Estate Venison with Creamed Spinach and Sauce Poivrade (£25) while I went for the Cornish Spring Lamb Cutlet, Braised Shoulder and Kidney, Chump Potatoes and Roasting Juices (£28). The venison was cooked medium-rare, as ordered, and came with a lovely thick sauce, full of flavour. We both agreed though that the lamb was the better dish since there was just more to it: the pink lamb shank was tender, juicy and of such quality that even the thick strip of fat enclosing it was very enjoyable; the shoulder was as delicate and yet full of flavour as you can wish for and the kidney just melted in your mouth. The juices were indeed just that, so rather than a thick gravy the chef bathed the meats in a wonderful concentrated lamb jus that was so good that I had to fetch the spoon from the potatoes to wipe the last bits of sauce from the plate... By that time I had already eaten much more of the warm home baked bread than I was planning to, hence the spoon! Impressed with the quality of the food, we were now looking forward to our dessert (£8.50 to £10.50): we ordered Cox Apple Tarte with home-made Vanilla Ice Cream and Warm Vanilla Rice Pudding with Bramley Apple Doughnuts - both were very much in the "Comfort Food" category, with a no-frills approach but flawless execution. The Cheese board was looking very appealing but we were both pretty full by that time and gave it a miss. Strangely, the list of Digestives was as unimpressive as the Wine list was exclusive: in comparison to the wonderful wine list that includes some rare vintages of the greatest names (at prices of up to several thousand pounds, but yet significantly cheaper than in most other Michelin-starred restaurant) just as well as more affordable yet appealing bottles from as little as £20, the Digestives list is rather uninspired and somewhat short.

9/10 - The Royal Oak offers beautiful food (predominantly prepared from locally produced ingredients), a great choice of wines, friendly and efficient service and a nice relaxed ambience, all at a very reasonable price. I will certainly come back!

Sunday, 1 May 2011

Food Review: Toan, Frankfurt/Main, Germany

As promised in my Mikuni review, here is the second of my two favourite restaurants in Frankfurt: Toan is the Vietnamese owner and head chef of the restaurant of the same name - in his kitchen he produces some of the most gorgeous food you will find in Frankfurt, certainly not the most complicated and sophisticated dishes, but nevertheless offering wonderfully combined flavours and aromas in a great variety. If you haven't tried Vietnamese food before, imagine Thai food taken up by about 20 notches... You will find spicy dishes, owing their heat to red chillies of various "seriousness", but also a large range of mild or medium spiced dishes, fragrant from lemongrass, coriander, mint and many other aromatic ingredients. Soups are even better than in Thailand (Tom Yam fades to insignificance next to some of the Vietnamese soups) and the salads are not unlike the ones you can find in Northern Thailand, but yet different and often more delicate.

The restaurant's website is in German only, unfortunately, but the standard menu and the suggestions menu are available in Vietnamese, German and English. Here are my top favourites: Canh chua tôm, an absolutely unique and irresistible soup; Pho, the traditional rice noodle soup with beef - best enjoyed as a main course if you're not too hungry (or binged on too many starters already); all of the dishes listed under "Cold Appetizers" - the salads (and the summer roll is basically a rice noodle salad rolled into rice paper) are all in their own league and all worth trying; the baked sole which is served with a ginger sauce - even most of the best Italian restaurants in Frankfurt will struggle to prepare a better sole; Bo La Lot, grilled beef in lot leaves, a mild but again very aromatic dish; and from the suggestions menu: Muc nuong toi, spicy grilled squid, served with a crushed black pepper, salt and lemon dip; Vit quay sot me, duck with tamarin sauce - simple, but very well prepared; and Ga nuong la chan, grilled boneless chicken legs with lime leaves, served with mixed veggies and garlic rice. The online menu is missing page 2 from the suggestions menu (probably because it includes frog legs, which may upset some people) but includes another gorgeous dish, stuffed chicken legs with tamarin sauce, an absolutlely brilliant dish. These are just my personal highlights though because they are either very difficult to find elsewhere or just especially well prepared - you will also find classic curry dishes, stir fries, chicken saté, spring rolls, etc. which are also very good. Ah yes, and my oldest daughter and I disagree on the best pudding (there isn't much choice but these two are very nice): grilled banana in coconut milk (my favourite) or Banh bi, a sesame / coconut ball with vanilla ice cream.

Toan is located near the Frankfurt Zoo and easily reached by Underground (U6, U7 to Zoo) or car (if you really can't find a parking space in the road, go to Parkhaus Zoopassage. Prices are very moderate given the quality of the food and there is a good choice of Cocktails. I have never looked into the Wine list but if you're interested just post a comment and I will check it out next time I go.

9/10 - I have tried a good number of Vietnamese restaurants, including "extensive research" in Vietnam, and this is as good as it gets - I dread the day when Mr. Toan will retire!